House Servants Directory | Index | Intro | Section One | Section Two and Three | Section Four and Five | Section Six | Section Seven and Eight | Section Nine and Ten | Glossary
Section Seven: Placing Dishes on the Table, Carving, and Going to Market,
DIRECTIONS FOR PUTTING DISHES ON TABLE.
Soup, broth, or fish, should always be set at the head of the table ; if none of these, a boiled dish goes to the head, where there is both boiled and roasted.
If but one principal dish, it goes to the head of the table.
If three, the principal one to the head and the two smallest to stand opposite each other, near the foot.
If four, the biggest to the head, and the next biggest to the foot, and the two smallest dishes on the sides.
If five, you are to put the smallest in the middle, and the other four opposite.
If six, you are to put the top and bottom as before, the two small ones opposite for side dishes.
If seven, you are to put three dishes down the middle of the table, and four others opposite to each other around the centre dish.
If eight, put four dishes down the middle, and the remaining four two on each side, at equal distances.
If nine dishes, put them in three equal lines, observing to put the proper dishes at the head and bottom of the table.
If ten dishes, put four down the centre, one at each corner, and one on each side, opposite to the vacancy between two central dishes ; or four down the middle, and three on each side ; each opposite to the vacancy of the middle dishes.
If twelve dishes, place them in three rows of four each ; or six down the middle, and three at equal distances on each side.
Note. – If more than the above number of dishes are required, the manner of laying them on the table must in a great measure depend on the taste of the dresser.
Desserts are placed in same manner ; – if you have an ornamental frame for desserts, or a bouquet, or any other ornament, for your dinner-table, invariably place them in the middle of the table.
THE UNIFORM POSITION TO PLACE DIFFERENT JOINTS, &C. ON TABLE.
Let the heads of fish always be placed to the left hand of the carver ; likewise the heads of hares, rabbits, and roasting pigs in like manner. And aitch bone of beef, let the silver skewer, which is generally put into it when for a party dish, be placed towards the left hand of the carver. A quarter of lamb, let the thin part be put from the carver, towards the centre of the table, with the net end to the left of the carver. A shoulder and leg of mutton should be placed with the shank of either to the left hand of the carver, unless your mistress or master otherwise order it. Turkies, geese, ducks, and fowls, are to be placed with the heads towards the right hand of the carver. Likewise woodcocks, snipes, partridges, and all sorts of wild fowls are to be placed in the like manner as above, because they are much easier to carve in this manner.
There are some people that will choose to have the heads of turkies, geese, and ducks, put towards their left hand, as they may then be able to come at the stuffing more handily.
In the sirloin of beef, let the thick boney end be placed to the left hand of the carver. The saddle or loin of mutton, the rump end to be placed in like manner.
In many large dishes that are for head and foot, there is a place for the gravy in one end of them ; observe always to put this end to the right hand of the carver, observing likewise not to forget the large gravy spoon.
All these rules you should observe, and pay great attention to them, for in the course of time you will find out how much trouble and difficulty there is in turning a large dish round, after the company have sat down, besides, it looks careless in the servant.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
This is a part of duty, which a house servant is seldom called upon to perform ; but, in case of the sickness of his employers, it is possible he may be ordered occasionally on this business of the table ; to be found incompetent or awkward in such emergency would be mortifying to both master and servant, I have therefore, my young friends, selected a few observations on this delicate and important art for your information. A complete and full knowledge of the business would do you no harm ; depend upon it you cannot learn too much of every thing in the least connected with service ; if you should never be called upon to exercise your skill at your employer’s table, you will perhaps daily or frequently find use for your talents at the servants’ table, or, when you quit service and have a family of your own ; and neatness and skill are requisite in everything you undertake, and in every station, whether for your employers, or for your equals. I would not have you intrusive, which would be worse than ignorance, but let your ‘light be hid under a bushel,’ always ready for modest use, if required. I shall now give you directions for carving several kinds of meat, fish, fouls, &c.
The carving-knife should be light, yet of a sufficient size, and the edge very keen. In using it, no great personal strength is requisite, as constant practice will render it an easy task to carve the most difficult articles, more depending on address than force ; but, in order to prevent trouble, the joints of mutton, veal, lamb, &c. should be divided by the butcher, when they may be easily cut through, and fine slices of meat taken off from between every two bones.
The more fleshy joints are to be cut in smooth slices, neatly done ; and in joints of beef and mutton, the knife should always be passed down the bone by those who wish to carve with propriety, and great attention should be paid to help every person to a portion of the best parts. Fish should be carefully helped, because if the flakes are broken, the beauty of it is entirely lost, for which reason a proper fish slice should be used, and observe to send a part of the roe, liver, &c. to each individual. The heads of cod, salmon, carp, the fins of turbot, and sounds of cod, are esteemed as delicacies, and, of course some should be sent to each person in company, which denotes an attentive degree of politeness towards your guests. In carving ducks, geese, turkeys, or wild fowl, you should cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making wings, by which you will gain more prime pieces ; but you need only do this when your party is large.
A cod’s head.
Fish is easily carved. The dish now under consideration, in its proper season, is esteemed a delicacy ; when served up, it should be cut with a fish-slice, and it should be remembered that the parts about the back-bone and the shoulders are generally accounted the best. Cut a piece quite off down to the bone, observing with each piece to help a part of the sound. There are several delicate parts about the head ; the jelly part lies about the jaw bone, and is by some esteemed very fine, and the firm parts will be found within the head.
Round of beef.
This valuable and excellent dish must be cut in thin slices, and very smooth with a sharp knife, observing to help every person to a portion of the fat, also cut in thin smooth slices, as nothing has a worse appearance than fat when hacked. Observe, also, that a thick slice should be cut off the meat, before you begin to help your friends, as the boiling water renders the outside vapid, and of course unfit for your guests.
Edge-bone of beef.
Take off a slice three quarters of an inch thick, all the length, and then help your guests ; the soft marrow-like fat is situated at the back of the bone below, the solid fat will be duly portioned from its situation with each slice you cut. The skewer with which the meat is held together while boiling, should be removed before the meat is brought to table, as nothing can be more unpleasant than to meet with a skewer when carving ; but as some articles require one to be left in, a silver skewer should be invariably employed for that purpose.
Sirloin of beef.
You may begin carving a sirloin of beef either at the end, or by cutting into the middle ; cut your slices close down to the bone, and let them be thin, observing to give some of the soft fat with each slice. Many persons prefer the outside ; it is therefore a point of politeness to enquire which they will take.
Fillet of veal.
The bone of this piece being taken out, renders the helping of it very easy. Many persons prefer the outside, – ask this ; and if so, help them to it, otherwise cut it off, and then continue to take off thin smooth slices ; observing to take from the flap, into which you must cut deep, a portion of stuffing to every slice, as likewise a small bit of fat. Lemon should always be served with this joint.
Breast of veal.
Is composed of two parts, the ribs and brisket, the latter is thickest, and is composed of gristles, a division of which you may easily discern, at which part you must enter your knife, and cut through it, which will separate the two parts, then proceed to help your guests to whatever part they chance to prefer.
Calf’s head.
Cut out slices, observing to pass your knife close into the bone ; at the thick part of the neck is situated the throat, sweet-bread, which you should carve a slice of with the other part, that your guests may have a portion of each. If the eye is preferred, which is frequently the case, take it out, cut it in two, send one half to the person who prefers it, and on removing the jaw-bone, some lean will be found, if required. The palet, generally esteemed a peculiar delicacy, is situated under the head : this should be divided into small portions, and a part helped to each person.
Shoulder of mutton.
Cut into the bone ; the prime part of the fat lies in the outer edge, and must be thinly and smoothly sliced ; when your company is large, and it becomes necessary to have more meat than can be cut as above directed, some very fine slices may be cut out on each side of the blade bone, but observe, the blade bone cannot be cut across.
Leg of mutton.
Wether mutton is esteemed the best, and may be known by a lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part, the slices are situated in the centre ; when you carve, put your knife in there, and cut thin smooth slices, and, as the outside is rarely fat enough, cut some from the side of the broad and in neat slices. Some persons prefer the knuckle, the question should therefore be always asked ; on the back of the leg there are several fine slices, for which purpose turn it up, and cut the meat out lengthwise. The cramp-bone is generally esteemed a delicacy ; to cut it out, take hold of the shank with your left hand, and cut down to the thigh bone, then pass the knife under the cramp bone.
A fore-quarter of lamb.
Divide the shoulder from the breast and ribs, by passing the knife under, observing not to cut the meat too much off the bones. When the lamb is large, put the shoulder in another dish, and squeeze half a lemon over it, and the same over the breast and ribs, with a little pepper and salt, then divide the grisly part from the ribs, and help agreeably to the taste of your guests.
Haunch of venison.
Pass your knife down to the bone, which will let out the gravy, then turned the broadest end of the joint towards you, and put in your knife, cutting as deep as you can to the end of the haunch ; let your slices be thin and smooth, the fat, which is always esteemed, to each person ; you will find most fat on the left side, which, with the gravy, must be properly divided among your guests.
Haunch of mutton.
Consists of a leg and a part of the loin, cut so as to resemble a haunch of venison, and must be carved in the same manner.
Saddle of mutton.
Take your slices from the tail to the end, commencing close to the backbone ; let them be long, thin, and smooth ; a portion of fat to each slice must be taken from the sides.
Roast pig.
This is generally divided by the cook before it is served up. You must first divide the shoulder from the body on one side, and then the leg, the ribs are next to be separated in two or three parts, and an ear or jaw presented with them, together with a sufficiency of proper sauce. The ribs are commonly thought to be the finest part ; but as this must depend on taste, the question should be asked.
Ham.
The best method of helping ham is to begin in the middle by cutting long slices through the thick fat. When made use of for pies, the meat should be cut from the under side, after taking off a thick slice.
Goose.
Separate the apron, and pour a glass of port wine into the body, and a little ready mixed mustard, then cut the whole breast in long slices, but remove them only as you help them ; separate the leg from the body by putting the fork into the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body, and having passed the knife, turn the leg back. To take off the wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body ; then put in the knife, and divide the joint down. However, practice can alone render persons expert at this ; when you have thus taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same by the other, if it be necessary, which will not be the case unless your company is large ; by the wing, there are two side bones, which may be taken off, as may the back and lower side bones, but the breast and the thighs, divided from the drum-sticks, afford the finest and most delicious pieces.
Fowls.
The legs of a boiled fowl are bent inwards, and tucked in the belly ; but the skewers must be removed before it is sent to table. To carve a fowl, take it on your plate, and as you separate the joints, place them on the dish ; cut the wing off, observing only to divide the joint with your knife ; then lift the pinion with your fork and draw the wings towards the legs which will separate the fleshy part more effectually than cutting it ; to separate the leg, slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut the bone ; then with the fork, turn the leg back, and the joint will give way ; when the wings and legs are in this manner removed, take off the merry-thought, and the neck bones ; the next thing is to divide the breast from the body, by cutting through the tender ribs, close to the breast, entirely down to the tail ; then lay the back upwards, put your knife into the bone half ways from the neck to the rump, and on raising the lower end, it will readily separate. The breast and wings are the most delicate parts ; however, the best way is to consult the taste of your guests, by asking which part they prefer.
Partridge.
The skewers must be taken out before it is sent to table, and it is then to be carved in the same manner as a fowl. The wings, breast, and merry-thought, are the primest parts.
Pigeons
Should be divided right in halves, either length-ways or across, and half helped to each person.
In respect to carving, written directions must always fail without constant practice, as that can alone give the necessary facility.
GOING TO MARKET.
Your employer will generally attend to going to market, to suit himself ; but your experience, if you should be called upon to do this duty, is of the utmost consequences. It is impossible to give you particular direction for all kinds of articles for the table ; in all cases observation and experience only can supply you with these to any degree of perfection. I shall merely set down some of the principal means of judging of the freshness or goodness of the provisions, and the choice of poultry, &c. Beef, veal, pork, mutton, and vegetables, you all are generally competent of purchasing.
Lamb.
In the fore-quarter of lamb mind in the neck vein : if it be an azure blue, it is new and good ; but if it be green or yellow, it is near tainting if not tainted already. In the hind quarter, smell under the kidney, and try the knuckle ; if you meet with a faint scent, and the knuckle be limber, it is stale killed. For a lamb’s head, mind the eyes ; if sunk or wrinkled, it is stale ; if plump and lively, it is new and sweet.
Veal.
If the bloody vein in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red, it is new killed ; but if black, green, or yellow, it is flabby and stale ; if wrapped in wet cloths, smell whether it be musty or not. For the loin first taints under the kidney ; and the flesh, if stale killed, will be soft and shiny.
The breast and neck taints first at the upper end, and you will perceive a dusty, yellow, or green appearance ; and the sweetbread on the breast will be clammy, otherwise it is fresh and good. The leg is known to be new by the stiffness of the joint ; if limber and the flesh seems clammy, and has green or yellow specks, it is stale. The head is known as the lamb’s.
The flesh of a bull-calf is more red and firm than that of a cow-calf. and the fat more hard curdled.
Mutton.
If it be young, the flesh will pinch tender ; if old, it will wrinkle and remain so : if young, the fat will easily part from the lean ; if old, it will stick by strings and skins ; if ram-mutton, the fat feels spongy, the flesh close-grained and tough, not rising again when dented ; if ewe-mutton, the flesh is paler than wether mutton, a close grain and easily parting. If there be a rot, the flesh will be pale, and the fat a faint white inclining to yellow, and the flesh will be loose at the bone. If you squeeze it hard, some drops of water will stand up like sweat.
As to the newness and staleness, the same is to be observed as in lamb.
Beef.
If it be right ox-beef, will have an open grain ; if young, a tender and oily smoothness ; if rough and spongy, it is old, or inclined to be so, except the neck, brisket, and such parts as are very fibrous, which in young meat will be more rough than other parts.
A carnation, pleasant colour, betokens good meat : the suet a curious white ; yellow is not good. Cow-beef is less bound and closer grained than ox, the fat whiter, but the lean somewhat paler ; if young, the dent made with the finger will rise again in a little time.
Bull-beef is close grained, deep dusky red, tough in pinching, the fat skinny, hard, and has a rammish rank smell ; and for newness, and staleness, this flesh brought fresh has but few signs, the more material is its clamminess, and the rest your smell will inform you. If it be bruised, these places will look more dusty or blacker than the rest.
Pork.
If young, the lean will break in pinching between the fingers ; and if you nip the skin with your nails, it will make a dent ; also if the fat be soft and pulpy, like lard : if the lean be tough, and the fact flabby and spongy, feeling rough, it is old, especially if the rind be stubborn, and you cannot nip it with your nail.
If a boar, though young, or a hog gelded at full growth, the flesh will be hard, tough, red, and rammish of smell ; the fat skinny and hard ; the skin thick and rough, and pinched up, will immediately fall again.
As for old or new killed, try the legs, hands, and springs, by putting the finger under the bone that comes out ; if it be tainted, you will there find it by smelling the finger ; besides the skin will be sweaty and clammy when stale, but cool and smooth when new.
If you find little kernels in the fat of the pork, like hail-shot, it is measly, and dangerous to be eaten.
Brawn.
Brawn is known to be old or young by the extraordinary or moderate thickness of the rind ; the thick is old, moderate young. If the rind and fat be tender, it is not boar brawn but barrow or sow.
Venison.
Try the haunches or shoulders under the bones that come out with your finger or knife, and as the scent is sweet or rank, it is new or stale ; and the like of the sides in the fleshy parts ; if tainted, they will look green in some places, or more than ordinary black. Look on the hoofs, and if the clefts are very wide and rough, it is old ; if close and smooth, it is young.
Hams and bacon.
Put a knife under the bone that sticks out of the ham, and if it comes out in a manner clean, and has a curious flavour, it is sweet ; if much smeared and dulled, it is tainted or rusted.
Gammons are tried the same way, and for other parts, try the fat ; if it be white, oily in feeling, does not break or crumb, it is good ; but if the contrary, and the lean has the little streaks of yellow, it is rusty, or will soon be so.
Hare, leveret, or rabbit.
Hare will be white and stiff, if new and clean killed : if stale, the flesh black in most parts, and the body limber ; if the cleft in her lips spread much, and her claws wide and ragged, she is old ; the contrary young : if young, the ears will tare like brown paper ; if old, dry and tough. To know a true leveret, feel on the fore-leg, near the foot, and if there is a small bone or knob, it is right ; if not it is a hare ; for the rest observe as in a hare. A rabbit, if stale, will be limber and slimy ; if new, white and stiff : if old, her claws are long and rough, the wool mottled with gray hairs ; if young claws and wool smooth.
Butter.
When you buy butter, trust not to that which will be given you, but try in the middle, and if your smell and taste the good, you cannot be deceived.
Cheese.
Cheese is to be chosen by its moist and smooth coat ; if old cheese be rough coated, rugged, or dry at the top, beware of little worms or mites ; if it be over full of holes, moist or spongy, it is subject to mites ; if soft or perished places appear on the outside, try how deep it goes, the greater part may be hidden.
Eggs.
Hold the great end to your tongue ; it feels warm it is new ; if cold, bad ; and so in proportion to the heat or cold, is the goodness of the egg. Another way to know, is to put the egg in a pan of cold water, the fresher the egg, the sooner it will fall to the bottom ; if rotten, it will swim at the top. This is a sure way not to be deceived. Sound eggs may be also known by holding them between the eye and a lighted candle, or the sun. As to the keeping of them, pitch them all with the small end downwards in fine wood ashes, turning them once a week end-ways, and they will keep some months.
HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY.
Capons.
If it be young, his spurs are short, and his legs smooth : if a true capon, a fat vein on the side of his breast, the comb pale, and a thick belly and rump ; if new, he will have a hard close vent ; if stale, a loose open vent.
A cock or hen turkey, turkey poults.
If the cock be young, his legs will be black and smooth, and his spurs short ; if stale, his eyes will be sunk in his head, and the feet dry ; if new, the eyes lively, and feet limber. Observe the like by the hens ; and moreover, if she be with egg, she will have a soft open vent ; if not a hard close vent. Turkey poults are known the same, their age cannot deceive you.
Cock, hen, &c.
If young, his spurs are short and dubbed ; but take particular notice they are not pared or scraped : if old, he will have an open vent ; but if new, a close hard vent. And so of a hen for newness or staleness ; if old, her legs and comb are rough ; if young, smooth.
A tame, wild, and bran goose.
If the bill be yellow, and she has but a few hairs, she is young, but if full of hairs, and the bill and foot red, she is old ; if new, limber-footed ; if stale, dry-footed. And so of a wild bran goose.
Wild and tame ducks.
The duck, when fat, is hard and thick on the belly ; if not, thin and lean ; if new, limber-footed, if stale, dry-footed. A true wild duck has a red foot, smaller than the tame one.
Partridge, cock and hen.
The bill white, and the legs blue, show age ; for if young, the bill is black, and the legs yellow ; if new, a fast vent ; if stale, a green and open one. If full crops, and they have fed on green food, they may taint there ; for this, smell the mouth.
Woodcock and snipe.
The woodcock, if fat, is thick and hard ; if new, limber-footed ; when stale, dry-footed ; or if their noses are slimy, and their throats muddy and moorish, they are not good. A snipe, if fat, has a fat vein on the side under the wing, and in the vent feels thick. For the rest, like the woodcock.
Doves and pigeons.
To know the turtle-dove, look for a blue ring round his neck, and the rest mostly white.
The pigeon is bigger ; and the ring-dove is less than the pigeon. The dove-house pigeons, when old, are red-legged ; if new and fat, they will feel full and fat in the vent, and are limber-footed ; but if stale, a flabby and green vent.
So the green or gray plover, fieldfare, blackbird, thrush, larks, &c.
How to choose fish.
Salmon, Pike, Trent, Carp, Tench, Grailing, Barbel, Chub, Ruff, Eel, Whiting, Smelt, Shad, &c.
All these are known to be new or stale by the colour of their gills, their easiness or hardness to open, the hanging or keeping up of the fins, the standing out or sinking of the eyes, and by smelling the gills.
Turbot.
He is chosen by his thickness and plumpness ; and if his belly be of a cream colour, he must spend well ; but if thin, and his belly of a bluish white, he will eat very loose.
Cod and Codling.
Choose by his thickness towards the head, and the whiteness of his flesh when it is cut : and so of a codling.
Sturgeon.
If it cuts without crumbling, and the veins and bristles give a true blue where they appear, and the flesh a perfect white, then conclude it to be good.
Fresh herrings and mackerel.
If their gills are of a lively shining redness, their eyes stand full, and the fish is stiff, then they are new ; but if dusky and faded, or sinking and wrinkled, and tails limber, they are stale.
Lobsters.
Choose by their weight ; the heaviest are best, if no water be in them ; if new, the tail will pull smart, like a spring ; if full, the middle of the tail will be full of hard, or red-skinned meat. A cock lobster is known by the narrow back part of the tail, and the two uppermost fins within his tail are stiff and hard ; but the hen is soft, and the back of her tail broader.
Plaice and flounders.
If they are stiff, and their eyes be not sunk or look dull, they are new ; the contrary when stale. The best sort of plaice the blue on the belly.
Section Eight: Observations to Cooks, an Excerpt from The Cook’s Oracle
A FEW OBSERVATIONS TO COOKS, ETC.
Thus far, Joseph and David, I have address myself to you, and might here conclude my observation ; but, as this book may fall into the hands not only of those who call themselves house servants, but of the cook, and every other attendant on large or small families, I have appended a few observations addressed to servants generally, but more especially to the cook and assistant cook ; and, that I might not be thought guilty of presumptions, in teaching what it may be thought I may not perfectly understand myself, or, as the old saying is, ‘swim beyond my depth,’ I shall quote this important part of the work from a most approved author, of whose knowledge on these points there can be no doubt. Some things mentioned may not particularly apply to the case in hand ; but generally speaking, the remarks and advice are such as should be read by every individual in every kitchen of every great family.
On your first coming into a family, lose no time in immediately getting into the good graces of your fellow-servants, that you may learn from them the customs of the kitchen, and the various rules and orders of the house.
Take care, to be on good terms with the servant who waits at table ; you may make use of him as your centinel to inform you how your work has pleased in the parlour, and by his report you may be enabled in some measure to rectify any mistake ; but request the favour of an interview with your master or mistress, — depend as little as possible, on second-hand opinions — judge of your employers, from your own observations, and their behaviour to you, — not from any idle reports from the other servants, who, if your master or mistress inadvertently drop a word in your praise — will immediately take alarm, and fearing your being more in favour than themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it, by pretending to take a prodigious liking to you, and poisoning your mind in such a manner as to destroy all your confidence, &c. in your employers, and if they do not immediately succeed in worrying you away — will take care that you have no comfort while you stay.
If you are a good cook, and have tolerably fair play, you will soon become a favourite domestic, if your master is a man of taste ; but never boast of his approbation, for in proportion as you think you rise in his estimation — you will excite all the tricks that envy, hatred, and malice, and all uncharitableness, can suggest to your fellow-servants ; every one of whom, if less diligent, or less favoured than yourself will be your enemy.
While we warn you against making others your enemy, we must caution you also to take care that you do not yourself become your own and greatest enemy. ‘Favourites are never in greater danger of falling, than when in the greatest favour,’ which often begets a careless inattention to the commands of their employers, and insolent overbearance to their equals, a gradual neglect of duty, and a corresponding forfeiture of that regard which can only be preserved by the means which created it.
If your employers are so pleased with your conduct as to treat you as a friend rather than a servant, do not let their kindness excite your self-conceit, so as to make you for a moment forget you are one. Condescension even to a proverb produces contempt in inconsiderate minds — and to such the very means which benevolence takes to cherish attention to duty, becomes the cause of the evil you wished to prevent.
To be an agreeable companion in the kitchen, without compromising your duty to your patrons in the parlour, requires no small portion of good sense and good nature ; in a word, you must ‘do as you would be done by.’
Act for, and speak of everybody, as if they were present.
We hope the culinary student who peruses these pages, will be above adopting, the common, mean and base, and ever unsuccessful way of ‘holding with the hare, and running with the hounds,’— of currying favour with fellow-servants — by flattering them, and ridiculing the mistress when in the kitchen, and then prancing into the parlour —and purring about her, and making opportunities, to display all the little faults you can find (or invent) that will tell well against those in the kitchen, assuring them, on your return, that they were praised, for whatever you heard them blamed ; and so, excite them to run more extremely into any little error , which you think will be most displeasing to their employers, watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into their unsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to bear witness of your inquiry — making your victims believe, it is all out of your sincere regard for them — assuring them (as Betty says in the Man of the World) — “That indeed you are no busybody that loves fending nor proving, but hate all tittling and tattling — and gossiping and back-biting," &c. &c.
Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants speak disrespectfully of a master or mistress with whom they have lived some time, it is a sure sign that they have some sinister scheme against yourself. If they have not been well treated, why have they stayed ?
‘There is nothing more detestable than defamation ; I have no scruple to rank a slanderer, with a murderer or an assassin. Those who assault the reputation of their benefactors, and ‘rob you of that which nought enriches them’ would destroy your life, if they could do it with equal impunity.’
‘If you hope to gain the esteem and respect of others, and the approbation of your own heart, be respectful and faithful to your superiors ; obliging and good natured to your fellow-servants, and charitable to all.’
‘Let your character be remarkable for industry, and moderation ; your manners and deportment, for modesty and humility ; and your dress distinguished for simplicity, frugality, and neatness ; if you outshine your companions in finery, you will most inevitably excite their envy, and make them your enemies.’
‘Do every thing at the proper time.’
‘Keep every thing in its proper place.’
‘Use every thing for its proper purpose.’
‘Never think any part of your business too trifling to be well done.’
‘Eagerly embrace every opportunity of learning any thing which may be useful to yourself, or of doing any thing which may benefit others.’
Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight affront. ‘Come when you are called, and do what you are bid.’
Place yourself in your master’s situation, and then consider what you would expect from him, if he were in yours.
Although there may be ‘more places than parish churches,’ it is not very easy to find many more good ones.
‘A rolling stone never gathers moss.’
‘Honesty is the best policy.’
‘A still tongue, makes a wise head.’
‘Saucy answers are highly aggravating, and serve no good purpose.
Let your master or mistress scold ever so much, or be ever so unreasonable ; as ‘a soft answer turneth away wrath,’– so ‘will silence, or a mild answer be the best a servant can make.’
‘If your employers are hasty, and have scolded without reason, very patiently ; they will soon see their error, and be happy to make you amends. Muttering on leaving the room, or slamming the door after you, is as bad as an impertinent reply ; it is, in fact, showing that you would be impertinent if you dared.’
‘A faithful servant will not only never speak disrespectfully to her employers, but will not hear disrespectful words said of them.’
Apply direct to your employers, and beg of them to explain to you, as fully as possible, how they like their victuals dressed, — whether much — or little done.
Of what complexion they wish the ROASTS, of a gold colour, or well browned, and if they like them frothed ?
Do they like soups and sauces, thick or thin, or white or brown, clean or full in the mouth ? What accompaniments are they partial to ?
What flavours they fancy ? especially of spice and herbs.
It is impossible that the most accomplished cook can please their palates, till she has learned their particular taste ; this, it can hardly be expected, she can hit exactly the first time, however, the hints we have here given, will very much facilitate the ascertainment of this main chance of getting into their favour.
The sense of taste, depends much on the health of the individual, and is hardly ever for a single hour, in the same state, such is the extremely intimate sympathy between the stomach and the tongue, that in proportion as the former is empty, the latter is acute and sensitive : this is the cause that ‘good appetite is the best sauce,’ and that the dish we find relishing and savoury at luncheon, is insipid at dinner, and at supper quite tasteless.
To taste any thing in perfection, the tongue must be moistened, or the substance applied to it contain moisture, the nervous papillae which constitute this sense are roused to still more lively sensibility by salt, sugar, aromatics, &c.
If the palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one of the best ways of refreshing it, is to masticate an apple, or to wash your mouth well with milk.
The incessant exercise of tasting, which a cook is obliged to submit to during the education of her tongue, frequently impairs the very faculty she is trying to improve. ‘Tis true, 'tis pity, and pity 'tis,’ (says a grand gourmand,) " 'tis true, her too anxious perseverance to penetrate the mysteries of palatics, may diminish the tact, exhaust the power and destroy the index without which all her labour is in vain.’
Therefore, a sagacious cook, instead of idly and wantonly wasting the excitability of her palate, on the sensibility of which, her reputation and fortune depend, when she has ascertained her relative strengths of the flavor of the various ingredients she employs, will call in the balance and the measure, to do the ordinary business, and to preserve her organ of taste with the utmost care, that it may be a faithful oracle to refer to, on grand occasions, and new compositions ; of these an ingenuous cook may form as endless a variety, as a musician with his seven notes, or a painter with his colours.
Receive as the highest testimonies of your employers’ regard, whatever observations they make on your work, such admonitions are the most unequivocal proofs of their desire to make you thoroughly understand their taste, and their wish to retain you in their service, or they would not take the trouble to teach you.
Enter into all their plans of economy, and endeavour to make the most of every thing, as well for your own honor as your master’s profit ; take care that the meat which is to make its appearance again in the parlour, is handsomely cut with a sharp knife, and put on a clean dish, take care of the gravy which is left, it will save many pounds of meat in making sauce for hashes, poultry, and many little dishes.
Many things may be re-dressed, in a different form, from that in which they were first served, and improve the appearance of the table without increasing the expense of it.
The best way to warm cold meat is to sprinkle the joint over with a little salt, put it in a Dutch oven, at some distance before a gentle fire, that it may warm gradually, watch it carefully, and keep turning it till it is quite hot and brown: it will take from twenty minutes to three quarters of an hour, according to its thickness ; serve it up with gravy ; this is much better than hashing it, and by doing it nicely, a cook will get great credit. Poultry, fried fish, &c. may be re-dressed this way.
Take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat in ; in five minutes you may make it into excellent soup. No good housewife has any pretensions to rational economy who boils animal food without converting the broth into some sort of soup.
However highly the uninitiated in the mystery of soup making may elevate the external appendage of his olfactory organ at the mention of ‘pot liquor,’ if he tastes, he will be as well pleased with it, as a Frenchman is with ‘potage a la camerani,’ of which it is said ‘a single spoonful will lap the palate in Elysium, and while a drop of it remains on the tongue, each other sense is eclipsed by the voluptuous thrilling of the lingual nerves !’
Broth of fragments. – When you dress a large dinner, you may make good broth or portable soup at a very small cost, by taking care of all the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, and poultry you are going to use ; wash them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as much cold water as will cover them ; set your stewpan on a hot fire ; when it boils, take off all the scum, and set it on again to simmer gently ; put two carrots, two turnips, a large onion, three blades of pounded mace, and a head of celery ; some mushroom parings will be a great addition. Let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours, strain it through a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a great deal of expense in buying gravy meat.
Have the dust, &c. removed regularly once a fortnight, and have your kitchen chimney swept once a month ; many good dinners have been spoiled, and many houses burned down by the soot falling ; the best security against this, is for the cook to have a long birch broom, and every morning brush down all the soot within reach of it. Give notice to your employers when the contents of your coal cellar are diminished.
It will be to little purpose to procure good provisions, without you have proper utensils to prepare them in ; the most expert artist cannot perform his work in a perfect manner without proper instruments ; you cannot have neat work without nice tools, nor can you dress victuals well without an apparatus appropriate to the work required.
In those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence of her employer so much as to be intrusted with the care of the store-room, which is not very common, she will keep an exact count of every thing as it comes in, and insist upon the weight and price being fixed to every article she purchases, and occasionally will (and it may not be amiss, to jocosely drop a hint to those who supply them, that she does) re-weigh them for her own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer, and will not trust the key of this room to any one ; she will also keep an account of everything she takes from it, and manage with as much consideration and frugality as if it was her own property she was using, endeavouring disprove the adage, that ‘plenty makes waste,’ and remembering that ‘wilful waste makes woful want.’
The honesty of a cook must be above all suspicion : she must obtain, and, (in spite of the numberless temptations, &c. that daily offer to bend her from it,) preserve a character of spotless integrity, and useful industry, remembering that it is the fair price of independence, which all wish for, but none without it can hope for : only a fool or a madman will be so silly or so crazy, as to expect to reap, where he has been too idle to sow.
Very few modern built town-houses have a proper place to preserve provisions in, the best substitute is a hanging-safe, which you may contrive to suspend in an airy situation, and when you order meat, poultry or fish, tell the tradesmen when you intend to dress it, he will then have it in his power to serve you with provisions that will do him credit, which the finest meat, &c. in the world will never do, unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and tender.
If you have a well-ventilated larder, in a shady, dry situation, you may make it still surer, by ordering in your meat and poultry, such a time before you wanted as will render it tender, which the finest meat cannot be, unless hung a proper time, according to this season and nature of the meat, &c. but always as ‘les bons hommes de bouche de France,’ say it is ‘assez mortifiee.’
Permitting this process to proceed to a certain degree, renders meat much more easy of solution in the stomach, and for those whose digestive faculties are delicate, is is of the utmost importance that it be attended to with the greatest nicety, for the most consummate skill in the culinary preparation of it, will not compensate the want of attention to this. Meat that is thoroughly roasted, or boiled, eats much shorter and tender, and is in proportion more digestible, and that which is underdone.
To encourage the best performance of the machinery of mastication, the cook must take care that her dinner is not only well cooked, but that each dish be sent to table with its proper accompaniments in the neatest and most elegant manner.
Remember that to excite the good opinion of the eye is the first step toward awakening the appetite.
Decoration is much more rationally employed in rendering a plain wholesome nutritious dish inviting, than in the elaborate embellishments which are crowded about trifles and custards.
Endeavour to avoid over-dressing roasts and boils, &c. and over-seasoning soups and sauces, with salt, pepper, &c. it is a fault which cannot be mended.
If your roasts, &c. are a little under-done ; with the assistance of the stewpan, the gridiron, or the Dutch oven, you may soon rectify the mistake made with the spit or the pot.
If over-done, the best juices of the meat are evaporated, it will serve merely to distend the stomach, and if the sensation of hunger be removed, it is at the price of an indigestion.
The chief business of cookery, is to render food easy of digestion, and to facilitate nutrition. This is most completely accomplished by playing cookery in perfection, i.e. neither over nor under-done.
With all your care, you will not get credit by cooking to perfection, if more than one dish goes to table at a time.
To be eaten in perfection, the interval between meat being taken out of the stewpan, and its being put into the mouth, must be short as possible ; but ceremony, that most formidable enemy to good cheer, too often decrees it otherwise, and the guests seldom get a bit of an ‘entremet,’ till it is half cold. So much time is often lost in putting every thing in applepie order, that long before dinner is announced, all becomes lukewarm, and, to the complete mortification of the grand gourmand, his meat is put on a sheet of ice in the shape of a plate, which instantly converts the gravy into jelly, and the fat into something which puzzles his teeth and the roof of his mouth as much as if he had birdlime to masticate : a complete meatskreen will answer the purpose of a hot closet, plate-warmer, &c.
Never undertake more work than you are quite certain you can do well : and if you are ordered to prepare a larger dinner than you think you can send up with ease and neatness, or to address any dish you are unacquainted with, rather than run any risk of spoiling anything, (for by one fault, you may perhaps lose all your credit) request your employer to let you have some help. They will acquit you for pleading guilty of inability, but if you make an attempt, and fail, they may vote it a capital offence.
Do not trust any part of your work to others without carefully overlooking them ; whatever faults they commit, you will be censured for ; if you have forgotten any article which is indispensable for the day’s dinner, request your employer to send one of the other servants for it. The cook must never quit her post, till her work is entirely finished.
It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all things done as they should be, and all done together, at that critical moment when the dinner bell sounds ‘to the banquet.’
“A feast must be without a fault ;
And, if ’tis not all right, ‘tis naught.’
But,
“Good nature will some failings overlook,
Forgiveness mischance, not errors of the cook :
As, if no salt is thrown about the dish ;
Or nice crisp parsley scatter’d on the fish
Shall we in passion from our dinner fly,
In hopes of pardon to the cook deny,
For things which Mrs. Glass herself might oversee,
And all mankind commit as well as she ?”
Such is the endless variety of culinary preparations, it would be as vain and fruitless a search, is that for the philosopher’s stone, to expect to find a cook who is quite perfect in the operations of the spit, the stewpan, and the rolling-pin ; you will as soon find a watchmaker, who can make, put together, and regulate every part of a watch.
‘The universe cannot produce that cook who knows how to do every branch of cookery well, be his genius as great as possible.’
Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, should have a dial of about twelve inches diameter, placed over the kitchen fireplace, carefully regulated, to keep time exactly with the clock in the hall or dining parlour ; with a frame on one side, containing a taste table, of the peculiarities of the master’s palate, and the particular rules and orders of his kitchen, and on the other side, of rewards given to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful service.
In small families, where a dinner is seldom given, a great deal of preparation is required, and the preceding day must be devoted to the business of the kitchen.
On these occasions a char-woman is often employed to do the dirty work, but we rather advise you to hire a cook to help to dress the dinner, this would be very little more expense, and the work got through much better.
When you have a very large entertainment to prepare, get your soups and sauces, forcemeats, &c. ready the day before ; many made dishes may also be prepared the day before they are to go to table, but do not do them quite enough the first day, that they may not be over done by warming up again.
Prepare every thing you can the day before the dinner, and order every thing else to be sent in early in the morning ; if the tradesmen forget it, it will allow you time to send for it.
The pastry, jellies, &c. you may prepare while the broths are doing : then truss your game and poultry, and shape your collops, cutlets, &c. Nothing should go to table but what has indisputable pretensions to be eaten !
Put your made dishes in plates, and arrange them upon the dresser in regular order ; next see that your roasts and boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed, &c. and quite ready for the spit or the pot.
Have your vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean washed in the cullender : provide a tin dish with partitions, to hold your fine herbs ; onions and shallots, parsley, thyme, tarragon, chervil, and burnet, minced very fine, and lemon peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped a very small ; pepper and salt ready mixed, and your spice-box and salt- cellar always ready for action, that every thing you may want to be at hand for your stove-work, and not be scampering about the kitchen in a whirlpool of confusion, hunting after these trifles, while the dinner is waiting.
Nothing can be done in perfection, that must be done in a hurry ; therefore, if you wish the dinner to be sent up to please your master and mistress, and do credit to yourself, set a high value on your character for punctuality : this shows the establishment is orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master and his guests, and is most praise-worthy in the attendants.
But, remember you cannot obtain this desirable reputation, without good management in every respect ; if you wish to insure ease and independence in the latter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only they can be obtained, and earn them by a diligent and faithful performance of the duties of your station in your young days, which, if you steadily persevere in, you may depend upon ultimately receiving the reward your services deserve.
All duties are reciprocal ; and if you hope to receive favor, endeavour to deserve it by showing yourself fond of obliging, and grateful when oblige ; such behavior will win regard and maintain it, and force what is right, and excuse what is wrong.
Quiet steady perseverance is the only sure spring which you can safely depend upon to infallibly promote your progress on the road to independence.
If your employers do not immediately appear to be sensible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost to their comfort and interest, be not easily discouraged ; persevere and do all in your power to make yourself useful. *
Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in the family, let it be manifest that you are desirous to do rather more than what is required of you than less than your duty : they merit little to perform merely what would be exacted : if you are desired to help in any business which may not strictly belong to your department, undertake it cheerfully, patiently, and conscientiously.
The preceding remarks and advice to cooks, are extracted from the Cook’s Oracle, a work which should be oftener in the hands of every Cook, but which I have seldom seen.
House Servants Directory | Index | Intro | Section One | Section Two and Three | Section Four and Five | Section Six | Section Seven and Eight | Section Nine and Ten | Glossary
